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Costa Dorado, Spain

 

 

 

     

     If you are looking for a unique, beautiful, inexpensive spot on earth to visit with your Russian companion that is also easily accessible you may be interested in Costa Dorado, Spain.  The Tarragona / La Pineda / Salou area south of Barcelona to be more specific. 

     We visited in late September / early October, 2003. 15 days / 14 nights.  (I thought that the air was a bit cool. A visit earlier in the season may have been more comfortable on the beach. We did have several days of rather heavy rain.)

  Andy                 

       


    

     General

 

     Obtaining a Shengan Visa to Spain is relatively easy for a Russian but be sure to allow plenty of time for processing.  Package deals are available in Russia that may prove less expensive than could be purchased in the US.  We found a  package for air for one with hotel for two (breakfast and dinner buffet included as 'Half Board') for about 650.00 Euros.  It was the last group package offered for the season and the timing was not good for us, so we chose to make the reservation in the US. 

 

     Elena was able to get a suitable Air France flight from St. Petersburg (LED), Russia through Paris into Barcelona (BCN).  I flew British Air from Denver through London into Barcelona at a good price.  The hotel was booked through an agent for about $65.00 per night (14 nights).  I found that if I booked myself on line, the cost would have been slightly less but the assistance of the agent was greatly appreciated.

 

     I rented a car for two weeks at the Barcelona airport (booked on line in advance) from National / Atesa which had the best deal available and beat the next lowest rental, Hertz, by about $300.00.  The Atesa rental included all liability insurance.

 

     We stayed at the Palace Pineda Hotel (4 star) in La Pineda.  Be sure to book the hotel. (The on-site apartments are very nice and may fit the bill for 4 or more people.)   The hotel rooms all have a veranda and provide the best views.

 

     Meals at the Palace Pineda (Breakfast and Dinner Buffet) were top notch with a large variety of foods offered.  Some old favorites with many new dishes, European style, of course.  There were many Russians at the hotel and many Russian favorites were offered.  (During the second week, a very large French group arrived. )

 

     La Pineda is about 80km south along the coast from Barcelona and is located between the old town of Tarragona and the resort town of Salou.  Easy ride and smooth sailing in spite of the dark and rain from the airport on Route A7/C32 (Autopista toll takers will accept a credit card if, like me, you neglect to obtain Euros first.)

 

     Smooth sailing, that is, until Tarragona then the directions get a little tricky until you get oriented.   At the airport, I was told "take C32 all the way as it will take you right into La Pineda".  Well, it did, sort of, but there was another road, N340, required that was not mentioned and I sailed on - oblivious and half asleep!

 

     Same on the return to Barcelona - a little tricky getting on the toll road, then smooth sailing to Barcelona.  The return is on the same Autopista toll road but now numbered as A3.   Plan on at least 90 minutes for the ride.  Stay on the obvious route.  Near to Barcelona, follow the Airport signs, of course, and entry is easy.

 

     Correct exit on arriving is the second Tarragona exit for N340.  But La Pineda is reachable from the Salou exit if you sail past Tarragona. (Look for the neon rainbow).  Pay attention and don't get lost!  You will find NO English speakers to help you on your way.  My Spanish is extremely limited and my book and electronic translator were of limited help.

 

     In Salou, I stopped at a hotel and found an English speaking clerk that put me straight.  I had to back track maybe five miles along the coast road to the Pineda Palace.  With the great number of hotels, traffic circles and splits in the road, limited signage and local traffic, it was no easy task in the dark and the rain after traveling all day.  The prominent Palace Pineda sign was a welcome site when I finally made the correct turn.  By the time I became used to the way around, it was time to go home.

    


 

     Safety Concerns

 

     At no time did we feel uncomfortable, to include late night walks. Even in the wee hours, it was normal to see a young family out on a stroll.  The area of the La Pineda is strictly tourist and only occasionally we would spot the local police patrol.  Mostly handling traffic. 

 

     The greatest danger is with the traffic and only because it was light and it was easy to become complacent and not watch crossing the streets.  Our room had a safe but we felt no need to use it.  In fact, we did not lock the sliding door to the veranda once while there.  Day or night.  Of course, we *were* on the third floor but I would be more mindful of security here in Denver.    

 

     The usual precautions should be taken as with travel anywhere.  Especially with securing items in a rental car which may be easy prey no matter the country visited.

    

     Some may ask about the way an American might be received.  I felt that I was the first American there in quite a while and was sort of a novelty.  I found people very friendly and actually warmed up when they found I was an American.  American Eagles, Flags and other logos (NYPD, etc) were in evidence on T-shirts, caps and beach towels in the shops and in the possessions of other tourists.  Several restaurants featured the good ol'  'American Breakfast'.  

 

     I spoke to a couple from Belgium that were wearing T-shirts bearing the Bald Eagle over the American Flag with "God Bless America".  They had relatives living near Philadelphia not far from the area where I grew up. They were fun.  I also had some fun trying my long ago, very limited, high school French with some of the French youngsters around the pool.  With them, I *was* a novelty! They would stand nearby and stare.  

    


 

     Money

 

     The coin of the realm is the Euro.  Exchange rate during our visit was about 1.30 USD to one Euro officially.  However, the exchange rate varied greatly depending on the exchange office visited.

    

     The exchange rate at the hotel was among the worse at 30 Euros for $50 USD.  The next worse was when I exchanged a $20 bill and received 11 Euros and change at one of the official changers along the shop area.  The best was 38 Euros for $50 USD found in Salou.  The best rate is found when using the credit card for purchases as you get the going official rate at the time of the conversion with no profit margin built in. 

 

     It was common to give a 20 Euro bill for a purchase and receive only a handful of coins. At first, I thought "Geez, that was expensive!" until I saw that the coins were one and two Euro denomination.

 

     Besides the exchange rate, prices for most everything were reasonable.  Near to the hotel, there were many souvenir shops and clothing stores.  Even a luggage store.  Grocery stores were easy to find - a two liter bottle of Sangria was 1.95 Euros.  (At the hotel bar, a six ounce bottle of tonic was 1.95 Euros with a glass of red wine or Sangria costing only 1.30 Euros.  Sangria was on tap!)

 


 

     Things to Do

    

     Two weeks were not enough to see and do all that was available in the Salou / La Pineda area.  There is much more in the outlying areas.  Madrid appeared to be an easy overnight trip by train we will save until next time.

 

     As could be imagined, things were very low key and laid back.  Nearly all shops closed during the middle of the day.  Early on the first morning (Sunday), I took a stroll to the beach and found already in progress a traditional bocci tournament in the open lot in front of the hotel.  The tournament lasted the better part of the day.  Bocci is also a popular game on the beach played with plastic balls.

 

     The beach (topless) was a five minute walk from the hotel.  The beach rules appear to be very liberal as you will also find the occasional fisherman sharing the beach. 

 

     The strip nearest the beach had many shops, restaurants and bars.  (Look for the *very tall* stylized Pineda Pines).  The restaurants there offered a large variety of foods that covered the favorites of many nationalities. 

 

     Along the strip, within a short walk from the hotel, we found the Aquopolis water park.  Tickets are available at the hotel for the water park or the park's Dolphin Show which is available separately.  

 

     Also within walking distance is the Town of La Pineda about 2 km to the northeast.  Here, also, you will find many shops and restaurants and interesting scenery including the tall (REAL) Pineda Pines that became the logo for the area.

 

     The Town of Salou is about a 15 minute drive southwest.  Along the way are many restaurants and bars as well as a large number of hotels.  Salou is a typical tourist town with hundreds of shops, bars and restaurants.  Parking is difficult to find along the streets but there is a large municipal parking lot beach-side that is very convenient to most of the shops as well as the beautiful park along the beach.    Another Salou link.    

 

    There is a small number of advertised 'discos' and bars in Salou that offer 'dancing', but be aware that there is very little disco activity.  The music was a tease as there was no crowd dancing and one of the 'discos' (Snoupy's) turned us away well after their 10 PM advertised opening time with a "we are not open"!  We found out later that the discos cater to certain national groups and if you are not in the favored group, admittance will be denied.  On the walk back to the car, we did find a rather good Spanish duo playing in the courtyard of a hotel.  They kept the crowd on their feet and kept us out until closing time.  

 

     Dancing in the hotel area of La Pineda also was limited.  The hotels all had entertainment nightly that usually ended with a Spanish band (all were good) or Spanish disco.  Occasionally, they played familiar tunes ('Achy, Breaky Heart' was a local favorite) but in Spanish which could be expected.  The dance crowd was the older group but they were very good and very energetic.

 

     In Salou (near Reus), we went horseback riding one day.  The cost was only 20 Euros per hour p/p and they provided transportation to and from.  The ride is tailored to abilities.  Our ride along the olive and hazlenut orchards was, of course, very pleasant.  Look for flyers for the "West Fork Hipica - Salou Excursiones".  Very nice people.  (English, Spanish and Russian speaking). Top off your ride with a beer, coke or cappuchino in the ranch bar.

 

     Nearby is a go-cart track which we will try during our next visit.

 

     Near Cambrils, a Jeep Adventure 4x4 is available at 36 Euros per person for the day.  The schedule conflicted with our Montserrat tour and I do enough Jeeping here in Colorado so we will hit this also during our next visit.  The itinerary looked interesting with visits to some scenic beach and hill areas as well as old towns.

 

     In the other direction from La Pineda is the Universal Studio Park.  Actually two parks at one location.  Theme park, Port Adventura and water park, Costa Caribe side by side.  We spent a day (not nearly enough time) at the theme park and had a great time!  Cost at Port Adventura was 34 Euros p/p which included all rides and shows. Cost of the Costa Caribe was 17 Euros p/p.  Both have multi entry tickets available.  Woody Woodpecker is the mascot and large, permanent Woody characters can be seen often along the streets and roads in La Pineda and Salou.

 

     Port Adventura offered many rides and shows (highly recommend that you don't miss Templo del Fuego) as well as snack stands, restaurants and souvenir shops.  Very well done and reasonably priced.  It is rare to hear English here also but I met a very nice British couple while waiting for Elena who went on the Dragon Khan alone (yes, I chickened out!)

 

     One of the theme areas was Far West which could have been old Colorado.  Very well done.  Elena had fun at the shooting gallery.  I was fortunate to beat her score only by one or two hits.

 

     Part of the Universal property is set aside for the Port Adventura Hotel which is very beautiful.  I will look into the Hotel Port Adventura if we are fortunate enough to visit again.  They offer on line booking at:  http://www.portaventura.co.uk.

Phone:  00 34 977 77 91 10.

 

     Within a 20 minute drive of La Pineda is the very interesting old town of Tarragona with a contrast of old town, 'new' town, Roman ruins and modern mall.  Must sees include the Roman amphitheater near the coast and the nearby Pretori as well as the old cathedral within a short walk through the old narrow-street neighborhoods.  Beautiful buildings, many with colorful inlaid tiles.  Huge, ancient wooden doors and wrought iron balconies are everywhere.  Roman ruins are in abundance in and around Tarragona.        

 

     Bus tours available include visits to Barcelona and Montserrat Monastery.  Various tours are readily found in Russian and not so readily in English.  The Montserrat tour in English can be purchased at the Pineda Palace.  Elena found the Russian Barcelona and Montserrat tours on a poster in the shop area.  Even though you may have a car, I recommend the bus tours as a good break from the driving and an easy way to see a large part of the area.  Costs were reasonable for all tours.        

 

     The Barcelona tour returned near 10 PM with a full day of seeing some great sights.  Stops included L'Aquarium Barcelona as well as some beautiful parks of sufficient elevation to afford a splendid view of the city and the harbor.  We were able to spend some time in central Barcelona sight seeing and shopping (bought several very nice Italian gold earring sets at a great price!).  At dusk, the tour stopped at the Capitol complex for the dancing fountain show.  Set to classical music with ever changing color fountains.  

 

     The tour to Montserrat Monastery returned to the hotel at about 6 PM and included a stop at the world famous Torres winery on the return.  The monastery is awesome in size and in it's living history.  The tour cost included a visit to the monastery museum which housed many paintings by artists recognized worldwide to include Picasso and El Greco.

 

     Unbelievable buildings and statuary throughout the complex.  The cathedral was breathtaking.  We were fortunate to visit just in time for a presentation by the boys choir.  Various local wines, liquors and chocolates can be found in the shops along with the usual (and unusual) souvenirs.  Prices here, too, were reasonable.  Another Montserrat Link.

 

   


 

     Info Links

 

     Finding useful links to the area was a challenge.  You may find some of this info redundant, and some of the links are easy to use and some not.  I'll leave it to you to decide which are most useful.

 

http://www.barcelona-airport.com/menueng.htm 

 

http://pub65.ezboard.com/fholidaytruthscommunityfrm8.showMessage?topicID=1176.topic

(Ton of info here provided by visitors)

 

http://pub65.ezboard.com/fholidaytruthscommunityfrm8

 

http://interhotel.com/spain/en/hoteles/154190.html

 

http://www.hotelsspainonline.com/Salou/PalasPineda/

 

http://www.salouonline.com/dir/dirindex.htm

 

http://www.salouonline.com/

 

http://www.eazy-travel-spain.net/costa-dorada-hotel.html

 

 


 

 

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