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I am by no means an ex-pat expert, but I have been to St. Petersburg more
than a few times. I am glad to give several hints to
the first time traveler. Of course, everyone’s experiences will vary. What
worked for me may or may not work for you but I believe that you will find a good starting
point in my notes.
Andy
General
You may find it
beneficial to dress subdued. Best to fit in with the locals as
much as possible. Leave the white sneakers, the bright football jersey, short
pants and the ball cap in your bags. You will find sunglasses are becoming
more popular but still rare,
also. If a concern for you, a Russian newspaper tucked under the arm may help
you look the part.
I have been asked for
directions or cigarettes on many occasions by Russians so I must be doing something right
in that respect. Once had my photo taken by a tourist who was on a canal boat while I
was standing on the Anichkov
Bridge peering into the canal.
Westerners are sometimes
spotted by their walk and demeanor. There are many reasons to try not
to be noticeable. Once a Russian jeep with two militsia officers stopped
across the sidewalk in front of me as I was walking along Moscovskaya. They eyed me up and down then, I believe not
being sure if I was a local or a tourist, continued on down the alley. I felt
sure I was going to be hit up for a 'street fine' for some infraction.
Of course, the likely
reason I was checked out was the tighter security required due to the
terrorist attacks worldwide.
It is important to
remember to carry your ID, Visa and the new Migration Card
with you. (Migration Cards are relatively new for Russian tourists - only introduced in December,
2002.
You will have to fill one out when going through Customs - remember to
carry it at all times).
Carrying copies of
the Visa and Passport may or may not be sufficient. Visas are now
attached to a page of the Passport. I have never been checked except on
exiting,
so I don't know from experience.
Registering your
visa is highly recommended. Not a problem if staying at a hotel as visa
registration is routine. However, if staying at a flat or private residence,
visa registration is more difficult. Even though visa registration may be a
hassle, you may (no... probably will) encounter an even greater official
hassle during a routine stop or on exiting the country if your visa is not
registered. Visas must be registered within three working days of your
arrival. Or on visiting a new area for three days or more.
Click here for the
Warden Message regarding the Migration Card
as well as links to other Warden Messages.
Cameras should be
unobtrusive and kept tucked away except at the attractions. Nothing marks a
tourist as much as a huge dangling camera. In my experience, most people are
honest, but, remember, the economy at present in Russia, as with many
locations, has many people just managing day to day. A camera may present a
great temptation for some and perhaps trouble for the stranger.
If you would like to
have your film developed while in St. Petersburg, I recommend the Camera
Shop nearest to the 5.3 Ghz Internet Club at #63, Nevsky. Next Day service for
three rolls cost 310 rubles ($10.30). One Hour service is available for
only a few rubles more. They process on site. Camera Shops for
film purchase and developing are
easily found all along Nevsky and in Gostiny Dvor.
You will find that
standard film sizes and batteries are readily available in most
shops and kiosks along Nevsky. If you
need special film or batteries, best to bring them with you. (Actually, with
a little search, you will find nearly everything that you will find in most
western areas. Stores, markets and kiosks are well stocked.)
If
not available at the kiosks, special
disk type watch batteries can be found at the watch repair shop (Часы
Ремонт) at #23, Nevsky. Under the arch into the courtyard, straight back (near
The Fort Ross Bar - across from Nord pastry shop). They also had some
great
prices on wrist watches offered for sale!
If interested, you will find many
Internet Cafes and Clubs along Nevsky and on the nearby side streets. One
in downtown Nevsky is Quo Vadis. Look for the signs. My favorite Internet Club with full-use computer
rental available is '5.3 GHZ'
at #63, Nevsky. (1 hour is 85 rubles).
If you will be visiting
long term and may plan some time just staying in and the flat has a VCR,
Movies in English can be found at #3, Marata (1/2 block south of Nevsky).
Safety Concerns *
Areas to avoid...not
many - use common sense, especially at night. At no time did I feel unsafe
even walking along the more secluded spots along the Neva at night.
Don't make eye contact with the local guys at the beer gardens.
Avoid the neighborhoods,
don't explore the courtyards. Be aware of who is around you. Avoid the same
areas and characters that you would avoid in any strange city. Of
course, it is preferable to have a Russian with you. Either a friend or a
hired guide and translator.
Be aware of pick
pockets along Nevsky and in the Metro. Especially the gypsy kids If
they recognize you as a tourist (and they are good at it), they may surround
you and cause a commotion to distract you. Keep nothing of value in your back
pockets, hold your bags tight. If surrounded and you can't get away (you
won't), duck into a bistro or store or wave as if calling militsia (police).
You may be lucky and have a sharp-tongued Babushka come to your rescue.
Yelling at them yourself will do no good and will only add to the confusion
unless you can shoo them away with proficient Russian. Keep them at a
distance. Their hands are as fast as lightening.
Many of the kids may
come begging for coins. If you give a few coins, you will soon be
surrounded by others as you will appear to be an easy mark. Best to
just say firmly "Nyet, spasibo!" or if they are older: "Te rabota!"
(loosely- you, get a job!).
If someone comes out of
nowhere and purposely blocks your way (lighting a cigarette, etc.), you are being set up for a pick
pocket. Your movement is stopped and you are being distracted. Turn away,
even if it is to only rotate your body. Move away as soon as you can. Be
aware if you are being followed for a distance. This ploy is sometimes worked
by two or three men. Be especially aware in tight places such as exiting
buildings and, of course, in the Metro.
Carrying a false,
disposable 'wallet' may be an option for some. I always carry a hidden
'Passport Wallet' with extra cash in small denominations, ID, phone numbers,
proof of medical coverage.
*
Additional Safety Concerns:
Click Here
Handouts
You will find a number
of people seeking handouts along Nevsky. Most, it is easily seen, are in need
of the offering. There is a great contrast between the relatively prosperous
young people and the older citizens who are existing day to day. Among this
group are several young soldiers severely wounded, most likely, in Chechneya.
(One very nice young fellow, Genia, has been seen since my second visit. He
has lost both legs and still maintains a cheerful attitude).
Of course, use your
discretion in offering. Most locals provide a few coins but a 10 Ruble bill
is only about 35 cents USD.
Use great discretion in
contributing to the little Gypsy kids. As cute as they are, you may quickly
find yourself surrounded by a chattering swarm when some Rubles are provided
to one.
You will find some young
people seeking handouts but my impression is that they will buy vodka or beer
as soon as they are able and are not prone to job hunting.
Mosquitoes
Mosquitoes may become a
bothersome concern during the warm months especially if your hotel or flat is
near to a canal. Between the mosquitoes and the never-setting sun in the
summer, the tourist may find it difficult to catch any sleep. A blindfold may
help with the daylight but the mosquitoes need special measures.
Mosquito repellent from
home is a help. You will find for sale in many kiosks a low cost 'mosquito
heater' called "Raptor" for your room or flat that works very well. The
Raptor is about the size of a golf ball and plugs into the electric outlet.
(The generic equivalent of the Raptor can be found at street vendor tables
for 35 rubles ($1.10).
A small piece of repellent is placed on the surface of the holder and the
heat sends the repellent into the room. They work very well when plugged in
early in the evening. Caution, though - The 'mosquito heaters' should be
unplugged when the room or flat is empty.
Money
I have experience with
the US Dollar only. Bring along on your visit the newest, flaw free bills
that you can find. All denominations are accepted but in the new dollar
design only. Coins can be left at home. Bills bearing ink marks,
holes, tears
or bad creases will not be accepted by the
official money changers. Foreign currencies, especially US Dollars, are
looked at very hard due to counterfeiters. (Hint: If one exchange may
reject your bills for, perhaps, an ink mark, just try another.)
Merchants will not accept any currency other than Russian Rubles. Only Rubles
are legal tender in Russia.
Your passport is
required to exchange money. A stamped and certified copy of the passport
may be sufficient at
most exchanges while your passport and visa are being registered. (Be sure to
always have either the original passport with visa as well as the Migration
Card (or, at least, a copy) on you at all
times or you may find yourself in a serious conversation with the police if
stopped.)
You will be given a receipt for the exchange by the clerk.
(Retain the receipts and keep them handy at departure in the event there are
any questions on the currency you brought
in and what may be on hand at departure. I was
asked only once on exiting for the receipts by a very bored customs official.
When I pulled them out in a wad and dropped several on the floor, she gave me
a look, counted my cash and waved me on).
Be aware of anyone that
follows you into or out of the exchange office. (Using the Radisson or Europa
Hotel facilities are probably the safest as they are deep inside the
hotel.)
Cash (and carry) only
small amounts of money at a time. Maybe $50 to $100.
Use the
official changers which are everywhere. (Money changers on the street
corners are illegal and are chancy at best. Most curbside exchangers are
reported to be affiliated with the Russian Mafia and there is no recourse if
there is a 'mistake').
Westerners are usually
charged a higher rate for exchange than locals, but the amount is pennies.
There is small choice and you may find the amount is not great enough to be
worth the effort to find a better deal.
You will find ATM's
along Nevsky and they seem to be sprouting in many places very quickly. At
the Nevsky Corinthia Palace, no less than 6 ATM's are found both inside and
outside. Perhaps
the easiest to find are in the hotels. There is
an ATM inside
the Hotel Europa. There is also a reliable, 24 hour ATM inside
the Radisson Hotel at Vladimirsky / Litiniy as well as a currency exchange
booth with reasonable rates during day hours. It is possible to take cash
from your credit card at the Radisson booth. American Express Traveler's
Checks are accepted at the Radisson exchange booth. (Exchange rates at the cashier
inside the Europa are normally the worse that you will find along Nevsky).
Exchange rates
are historically about 28.5 Rubles to a Dollar and varies occasionally only a
little. Figuring the approximate cost of an item is simple- price in Rubles
divided by 30 gives a ball park price. Example- dinner at 450 Rubles = app.
$15.00 ($15.78 at 28.5).
Water
Drinking the water,
using ice or eating fresh, washed vegetables is not recommended due to the
Giardia
Parasite and heavy metals in the water. Best to avoid even in the
restaurants but most restaurants serve only
bottled water lately. Even in brushing
teeth, use bottled water.
Low cost
bottled water (about $1.50 for 2 liters if you wish to take back to your
room) is available everywhere and is ok. Bottled water is
available with or without "gas". You will usually be asked "With gas?"
or "Still?" (of
course, in Russian) when bottled water is ordered in a restaurant.
You may want to pack
some Imodium or similar for your trip just in case you have a stomach
problem. Drugstores (Аптека)
are found in nearly every block but Imodium is not something that you want to
hunt for when you need it. And then try to explain your problem to a
non-English speaking clerk! Imodium IS available at the drugstores.
Pronounced the same, but pa Russki = Имодиум.
Be careful not to confuse the antique shops (Антека)
or optical shops (Оптека)
with the drugstores.
Locations and Info on
Drugstores in
St. Petersburg.
A note to keep in
mind- Tourists are not covered in the Russian medical care system. A
tourist that becomes ill or injured may find himself denied treatment unless
proof of payment is exhibited. I have heard stories that even emergency
treatment is denied if payment is not guaranteed. I have always purchased SRI
Liaison insurance coverage, thankfully with no need to use it. It is
relatively low cost for the peace of mind provided. My chosen options include
basic travel coverage such as trip cancellation, lost luggage, etc as well as
medical treatment and evacuation. Links to
SRI Liaison and other
Travel Insurance
providers are found here.
The many opportunities
for illness or injury are, in my estimation, good reason to have the support
of a good local visa or apartment agency as well as health insurance.
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Bistros
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