Russian Touring, Russian Travel, Russian Women

Bistros

There are many good Restaurants (Ресторан) and Bistros (Ьистро) in St. Petersburg. In the popular tourist area around the Europa Hotel, some are, naturally, pricey. You may want to check the posted menus first for offering and prices to avoid surprises. (Some prices are 'per unit' and can be confusing). The Bistro's and Deli's are very good. I have not been disappointed yet with a meal or snack along Nevsky.

There is a Bistro along the east bank of the Gribodova Canal that I recommend called Laima. It is located not far off Nevsky (blue deck, Pepsi motif). Facing the Church of the Resurrection, it is on the right bank. Before Italianskaya. It will be apparent by the crowds entering and leaving. Order downstairs, most tables are upstairs with a few outside. (There is a Baskins / Robins across the canal if you crave ice cream or try the local ice cream from the street vendors).

A favorite Restaurant / Bistro that also specializes in a large variety of pastries is Saigon (Саегон) at 7, Nevsky. Good stop for lunch, dinner or snacks. Also found is a dance club for the younger group.

Many Bistros are on the order of our fast food restaurants but with better offering.

Some will offer Chicken Kiev and Beef Stroganoff along with many other local favorites. Nearly all have photos of the available choices posted inside or on the menu. Many Bistros along downtown Nevsky will have an English menu as well as photos. Most menus found, however, will be pa Russki only. Clerks will speak little English, if any.

Pastry Shops

You will also find a large variety of Pastry Shops all along Nevsky. Just the thing to rest your

bones from all of the walking. In most, you will find a variety of Cappuchinos to go along with the local pastry favorites. Some will offer 'American Coffee' but you will find it very different from what we recognize as American coffee. For a jolt, try the espresso! Most of the pastry shops also offer light meat or fish cakes as well as sandwiches if you wish to stop for lunch.

Pastry Shops which are favorites of my friend, Luba -

          Nord (traditional Russian, a famous St. P. brand) #22, Nevsky
           Ontrome (French) #1, Nevsky
           Ideal Cup (Идеальная чашка) a chain of shops, #15, #112, #130 on Nevsky. There are several other locations not far off Nevsky.
           Republic of Coffee, a popular chain of shops easily found along Nevsky.

(At Republic of Coffee (my favorite is at #106, Nevsky) you will find American Coffee with cinnamon (23 rubles) or chocolate (25 rubles) or a Cappuchino (23 rubles). A large variety of pastries are 30 rubles or less). The coffee in all of the shops is very strong.

Cafe Marko just a bit up from #106 Nevsky is another good choice for a pastry shop.
In the Bistros and Pastry Shops you will have a chance to practice your Russian as few of the counter help knows more than a few basic English words. They are very helpful and patient and you may have some fun trying to order.

Restaurants

You will find a large variety of restaurants along Nevsky and on the side streets as well as several pizza shops/restaurants with the usual Italian fare besides the pizza. Patio Pizza (now El Patio with an extensive makeover) is good but a bit overpriced IMO.

For a fine, medium-priced*** restaurant, I recommend the Literary Cafe at #18 Nevsky at the Moika River (same side as the Europa, on the northwest corner, unobtrusive white & yellow building). Said to be the place of Pushkin's last meal. They have a wax figure of poet Pushkin at a table inside. If you see that, you are in the right place. Good food and good prices***. The menu is in Russian and English. No matter the hour of your visit, you will likely be there for one of their regular classical music performances.

(***NOTE: as of June, 2003, The Literary Cafe has undergone major remodeling and is now a high-end, rather expensive restaurant. The remodeling is beautiful and continues. Dining is currently upstairs.)

You may also like Bogart’s (recommend the Beef Stroganov). North side of Nevsky at Malaya Koniushennaya. East side of the plaza. Lunch for two including wine was only 288 Rubles (under 10 bucks) plus tip.

Another cafe that I recommend is James Cook located at #2 Shvedsky Lane, north side of Nevsky five minutes from The Hermitage. Very good salmon cream soup (with hot rolls, cappuchino- 140 Rubles) as well as pastries. Also recommend the Beef Stroganov and the Pepper Steak (one of the best I've ever had!). Choice of sitting either side - high, long tables, left for coffee and pastries or bar/cafe atmosphere, right.

There is a fine Spanish Restaurant, Las Torres, just above the Radisson Hotel at Vladimirsky / Litiniy. Down the steps. Nice place also for just a quiet drink (some very good unique wines). (Skip the shrimp {prawns} appetizer.)

Inside the Radisson you will find a nice American style bar with the familiar drinks and a variety of snacks as well as a first class restaurant. (Across from the Radisson is a nice little bistro, 'Hamburg', (pa Russki only but with pictures) on Nevsky near the corner of Litiniy).

There is an authentic Georgian Restaurant, The Kavkaz-Bar, on the NE corner of Karavannaya and Italianskaya (#18 Karavannaya). North of Nevsky one block - not far from the Anichkov Bridge (at Nevsky and Fontanka Canal, the one with the four horses at the corners). A little pricey, but very good. Very unique menu. Highly recommended.

Diagonal across the street is Mama Roma's at #3 Karavannaya for good Italian fare.

A new restaurant that I recommend is The Telephone Cafe at Nevsky and the Moika (SE corner). Peach building, under the arch into the Stroganof yard. They have an all-you-can-eat buffet ($5.00) or standard Russian fare for lunch or dinner. Dinner for three with cappuchino and tip was 800 rubles ($27.00 +/-). Also a good place to stop during an evening stroll for pastry and coffee. Late night coffee and pastry for two is about 230 rubles ($7.50).

A very good Middle Eastern / Oriental Restaurant is the Kalif on Millionaya Ulitsa. Not far from the Hermitage. Very good food (recommend the stuffed salmon - light pastry with spinach), Middle Eastern music and belly dancers. Good prices - dinner for two with four drinks and cappuchino was about $40.00.

A very unique Restaurant is the Стервы (Women) at #10 Marata. Phone 315-49-03 for reservations. My friend, Natalia, suggested that we stop in for drinks and snacks one night and I was surprised to find an erotic show.

The Hotel Europa Restaurant is, of course, very good but very expensive. Good food, doting waiters, concert pianist and violinist top off an old world atmosphere. There is also a modern style restaurant at the Europa on the corner of Nevsky with outside tables in the summer.

Across from main entrance of the Nikolivsky Palace you will find a small bar on the corner. Entrance is separate from the affiliated restaurant. (Sorry, I did not make note of the name but ya can't miss it.) Use the underground crossway if coming from the Nikolivsky Palace. Very good fare with light dinner for two, with wine, at 240 Rubles (about $8). Unique sign over the door inside: the traditional Uncle Sam pointing and saying "I want you for U. S. Army". If you see a large Captain Hook statue on the bar, you are in the right place.

A very good Irish Bar that caters to the ex-pat crowd is the Shamrock on Dekabristov across from the Mariinsky Theater. Very good Irish Stew and Chicken Cordon Bleu, however, Luba found the Pork BBQ a bit bitter. Extensive menu, large portions, but a bit pricey. A good variety of beers.

You are making this trip to experience the unknown and the exotic, so I will not go into details about MacDonald's, Pizza Hut, Subway or KFC. There are several of the American fast food favorites along Nevsky and easy to spot if you wish. (Cost of the Big Mac Meal, not supersized, is 72 rubles - about $2.40).

As with the bistros, in nearly all of the restaurants, you will find few waiters proficient in English but they will understand what the diner asks for (of course, the widely encountered 'number meals' can be ordered easily). Be flexible and patient and, if an item is very important to you, don't hesitate to insure that the waiter has the order correct. Universally, they are attentive and I found that they made ordering easy.

Tip for service as in the US but know that sometimes the tip is included in the bill automatically. Be sure to scan the bill or you may wind up tipping twice.

Clubs

Be careful of the Night Clubs. My impression was that they may not be safe for the lone non-Russian. Lots of Russian Mafia types are evident but merely provide security and you will find them friendly. Little concern with them.

The clubs are reported to be safe and, more than likely, no problems will be encountered, but ya never know if a local who does not like foreigners wants to make a name for himself. Or a group sees an easy mark. The club managers, though, want no trouble and look for the return tourist business.

Hollywood Nights Restaurant and Casino is a landmark along Nevsky. Around the corner from the Hotel Europa. Undergoing major renovations and may be closed for a while (summer of 2003). Hollywood Nights is the usual location of the AFA (A Foreign Affair) socials.

Magrib is a popular Restaurant / Nightclub at 84, Nevsky that I recommend. Security was very tight. Still best to visit with a Russian friend along. Cover charge for the club was 500 rubles for foreigners and 250 rubles for Russians.

I am told that the Club Luna on Voznesenskiy is a nice club to take a lady. Haven't had the occasion to visit yet myself. Apparently the Russian women appreciate exotic dances. Just don't ogle.

Getting Around

You may want to purchase a decent Map or Guide book locally before you go to familiarize yourself with the city.

I had a hard time finding a readable map in St. P. They were either all in Russian or had very tiny print. (Well, you know the ol' eyes are always the second thing that goes!) ;)

Here is a link to a site that sells a map of St. Petersburg as well as many other European cities. It's laminated, and a good one. I just bought one myself. Click here If you have interest in a Map of St. Petersburg.

Guide books can be found in your local mall book stores. If not on hand, they will special order for you. I have several with the most used being the Lonely Planet, St. Petersburg Guide. Click here for the Lonely Planet *on line* Guide to Russia.

An up to date, free guide with decent city maps can be found in several commercial locations in St.Petersburg but you have to be lucky to find one still in the rack. The book is free and has a ton of info on local businesses and attractions as well as listing of American Medical Centers.. I have found the guides at the International Hostel Holiday on Mikhailova when I registered my visa.

Laminated maps (carta) in English similar to the maps found at the above link are available in the book stores (House of Books and others) along Nevsky at a cost of 300 rubles (about $10.00). Guide books in English are also available in the book shops at varying prices. A decent map published monthly with concert and show dates and times can be found among the vendors along Nevsky at about 15 rubles. These are usually sold out quickly.

Taxis - Official and Unofficial

First of all, be prepared to walk. And walk and walk and walk.

Walking is more convenient, and you experience more of the beautiful city. A small, subdued color backpack or shoulderbag may come in handy to hold your camera, Imodium and bottled water and any souvenirs that you may find. You may want to include a collapsible umbrella. There are many heavy spring and summer showers that come without warning. :) Umbrellas are available in selected shops along Nevsky at a cost of about 600 rubles ($20.00).

Official Taxis are everywhere but tend to set higher prices for non-Russians.

Negotiate the price before entering the Taxi. If the price is too high, try another. Do not enter a Taxi with an occupant in it already (except for the driver, of course). Know something of your destination and the likely route. A few words of Russian and the knowledge of the dollar conversion rates will help. The less said to the driver, the better. Of course, if you are with a guide or a Russian friend, allow them to negotiate. You may find the charge, for example, for a ride from the Moscovsky Metro to the Europa costs about $40.00 or more. WAAY too much!

(When telling the driver your destination, avoid using expensive hotels such as the Europa (use Gostiny Dvor) or the Astoria (use St. Isaac's) as your destination for obvious reasons.)

It is easy to hail an Unofficial Taxi if you are feeling adventurous. The same caveats apply as above. Many Russians are happy to make a few extra Rubles by transporting walkers, especially if the destination is on their route. Merely stand near the curb in a safe and convenient spot with space for a car to pull over easily and, facing oncoming traffic, hold your hand away from your side, palm front. Within a short time someone will stop. Except for the destination or a problem, do not talk to the driver.

This is not a recommended mode of transportation but works well for many. Within about 5 miles of downtown, the cost could be from 50 Rubles ($1.80) to maybe 200 Rubles ($7.14). Always get the total price before entering.

Same here- if you are with a guide or a Russian friend, allow them to negotiate. Keep silent.

I found that using a nearby landmark as your destination (but not the high priced Europa or Astoria hotels) or pointing to a map is a big help if alone. Ask "skolka?" (how much) (the answer will be in Russian, so hold out two 50 ruble bills <if nearby, just one>). If the driver says "no", hold out a 100 ruble bill with one 50. Maybe here add the last 50. (If too much is asked for- you gotta know when to say "nyet, spacibo". At that point, the driver will usually accept. If not, just look for another).

Russian Traffic and Car Rental

My experience with Russian traffic is merely dodging it or sitting and cringing during the ride in the taxi. I have no direct experience in driving in Russia, but in warnings from more experienced travelers, it is recommended that you do not rent a car. For one thing, the drivers are infinitely worse than even Denver drivers (Boston cab drivers also may take lessons in St. Petersburg!) and the liability laws are different than we have. If a "rich" westerner is in a traffic accident, they may run him through

the wringer (even as a passenger). Driving would also entail a pretty good grasp of the language. You don't want to run a Стоп sign! Almost every driver that is first in line at a traffic light WILL anticipate the green and take off like a race car driver.

Pedestrians seem to be fair game. I have seen drivers speed up and seem to aim at even slow moving Babushkas crossing a street to give them a thrill. Pedestrians do not have the right of way that they enjoy in most Western countries. Be very careful in crossing streets. Downtown, it is recommended to cross only when indicated by the pedestrian light and then hurry across. Nevsky is wide and the light is fast.

You may have heard the story of the hapless pedestrian that had the misfortune of being struck at an intersection only to have the driver jump out of the car very irate and proceed to beat the injured

walker and chase him down the street. I saw this during the City Birthday Celebration along Nevsky. It happens!

Skateboards and the new aluminum scooters along with roller blades are becoming popular with the teens. Of course, on the sidewalk so be wary.

The Trolleybus

You may want to skip taking the local busses or trolleys until you have sufficient experience in getting around. The buses are always overcrowded and at commuting times, you would swear they all had rubber sides. Unless you pay close attention, it is easy to miss your stop, especially if you wind up squeezed into the center of the crowd. As in any large city, you will find the old, rickety vehicles as well as the new, very modern.

Cost of the Trolleybus is 10 rubles. Cost of the minibus is 6 rubles. (Look carefully and you may spot the trolleybus with the Tupperware ad on it's side).

Metro

Traveling the Metro is an experience in itself which I recommend if only for a stop or two and then turnaround. You will find the Metro to be modern, clean and efficient. Know your destination, of course. Count your stops. All Metro signs are in Russian. The Metro map is needed. Purchase tokens at the booth. Feed the turnstile, follow the crowd just as in any major city. On the escalator, stand to the right to allow others room to pass to the left. The cost of a token is about $.30. For long term visits,

multiple use cards are available.

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